|Step 1: Demolish|
|Find a clone Pong console. Make sure you are not sacrificing a valuable piece of hardware like a Magnafox Pong console since your project might go all wrong, leaving the world with one Pong console less. I found a rather obscure German piece of hardware that looks quite terrible. The manual mentions “realistic sounds” which I guess mean “realistic Pong console sounds”. In this case is true (either that or tennis sounds very different in Germany).|
Unscrew the console. Keep the front so you can decipher the switches later on.
|Step 2: Create model|
|“Either create, or better: find a ready-made”. Wine boxes are good for many things, for example a Pong-console-in-cement-model.|
|Step 3: Operation "Waterproof"|
|Electronics don’t like wet; make the pong circuit board waterproof. I folded cardboard around the circuit board and then used mighty gaffer tape to make it waterproof.|
|Step 4: TEST TEST TEST!|
|When you abuse old electronics make sure you test after every step. Just bending something could-easily-be-bended-looking can screw up your entire project. It cut off the controllers since I need to attach those when the cement is dry. The Pong console stops showing the bats as soon as I detach the controllers.|
|Step 5: Choose your game|
|I like simple. Extra features are just there to make the electronics look more expensive. The Pong console offers all kinds of unnecessary features like “single play” (tennis against a wall on your own, how fun), small bat size (making it virtually impossible to play the game and 20 degree angle ball bouncing, turning the game is the dullest thing on TV ever. The great thing of simplifying complicated stuff is that it forces you to make decisions; what do really want you want? In my case, I like “Football” (or “hockey” on other Pong consoles), normal speed ball, 40 degrees ball angle, normal sized bats.|
|Step 6: Extend controller wiring|
|I have to extend the wiring for the controllers. To be very sure that everything works (I’m not that good at soldering), I attach the controllers again, phew, it still works. Interesting is that when you detach the controllers, the player bats also disappear from screen.|
|Step 7: Antenna and power connections|
|In my holy quest for simplicity, I like to use the same connections for both the antenna (red) and power (black). I use normal “tulip” connectors.|
|I drilled two holes in the back of the box. The connectors fit in precisely so wet cement won’t get through.|
|Step 8: Preparing for cement|
|I drilled a hole for the controllers on each side. I put in an aluminium tube that fits exactly in the hole. The wiring for the controllers through the tubes. I created extra space at the back (gaffer tape) of the circuit board so I can push the wiring back when I attach the controllers. I attached 3 screws on the sides of the package, making it float (cement needs to go underneath the package).|
For some reason, most of my inventions always end up looking like bombs.
|I would like the controllers to fit on top of the brick, so I put in a piece of wood that will leave a “gap” on top of the brick.|
|Step 9: Cement!|
|Cement is terrible stuff; make sure you wear some kind of plastic gloves. I create rather wet cement, so it flows in all corners. While pouring, shake the model so the cement covers each corner and bubbles of air come out. And now the hardest part: wait…|
Wait some more…
... and some more...
|Step 10: Victory!|
I forgot to take pictures of soldering the controllers but I can tell you that it was hell. Every time I have to solder something I always remember how much I hate it.